It's a good idea to start by getting all the wood stock to a standard thickness. If you have a planer, it's a great tool for this. I sized the thickness of all the red cherry boards to 3/4-inch. BOX04901
The basketweave top for this box is made of thin, flexible strips cut from the 3/4-inch boards. The thickness of these strips isn't critical as long as they are flexible enough to be woven while still being strong enough to support any weight you may want to put on the box top. 1/8-inch strips work well. A band saw with a fence set on the table to contol the wood thickness works well for this. I've made these slats on a table saw, but I don't recommend it. Cutting small pieces on a table saw really doesn't work well. BOX04902
Make sure your wood slats are thin enough to be flexible. Once you have the thickness right, cut enough slats to fit side by side across the full width of the box and make sure they're long enough to span the boxes length plus the half inch needed to hold them in the side wall channels. That added length should be based on the depth of the channel and the lost length due to the rise and fall of the weave. BOX04903
Test the slats to be sure you have the right number ready to go and cut the additional slats to make up the warp of the basket weave. (Note: warp and weft are fabric weaving terms, but they can be used to describe the way the longer weft slats are woven between the shorter warp slats.) The picture on the left shows two warp slats and twelve weft slats woven between them. BOX04904
Cut the box sides to 1/2-inch thickness, saving the thinner remainder to be used as the inside box dividers. BOX04905
I'm missing some pretty important steps here, but I'll try to describe them: >>Cut the box bottom from 1/4-inch plywood >>Cut grooves/channels in the boxes side walls to insert the bottom and the top slats into. (The bottom channel is best done using a router with a 1/4-inch bit. The upper channel can be cut using the table saw. The table saw blade kerf makes a good channel for the slats. BOX04906
Sand the slats smooth and generally get them ready for finishing. It's best to finish the slats before the box is assembled to assure that there are no missed spots or sloppy spots that can't be reached after the box is assembled. BOX04907
Set up a jig with a braced right angle, so that you can position two sides securely with the bottom in place in the channel. Then place the third side and clamp a support to keep that in place. With three sides secured, but not glued in, test the top slats and final side for fit. BOX04908
Once you're sure the fit is right, you can remove the slats and glue bottom and three sides making sure that the fit stays right by positioning the last side in place without glueing it in. BOX04909
Once the glue-up of the three sides and bottom are dry, insert the side by side slats (the weft). Once those are all in place, weave in the cross pieces (the warp) by pushing the slat up or down and pushing the cross piece into the gap row by row, BOX04910
With all the slats in place, position and glue in the last side. Clamp the side on while drying. BOX04911
I thought this box might be better with feet, a sort of Chinese twist. To make those I drew the basic shape on a board with 8 similar shapes laid out to make efficient use of the 3/4-inch thick board. (Note: the board needs to be 3/4-inch to allow you to route out the 1/2-inch channel needed to fit correctly on the side boards.) BOX04912
I thought this box might be better with feet, a sort of Chinese twist. To make those I drew the basic shape on a board with 8 similar shapes laid out to make efficient use of the 3/4-inch thick board. (Note: the board needs to be 3/4-inch to allow you to route out the 1/2-inch channel needed to fit correctly on the side boards.) BOX04913
Drill holes in the board and then cut the feet out with a band saw. BOX04914
Cut each foot BOX04915
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